Mission accomplished. Last week I had the idea of driving over to Louth, staying over night and getting two long country walks in. The plan came to fruition. Yesterday I walked for three and a half hours and today, after a stroll round the charming market town of Louth, I undertook a second major walk that took four and a half hours.to complete. By the end, I was what my mother would have called - "jiggered".
At the top is the former pub where I stayed - "The Travellers" and below is the "Helal Tandoori" where I ate my curry meal last night - washed down with two pints of "Kingfisher" beer.
Being in Louth may seem a little like stepping back in time. Apart from the men who work in "Helal" and the Thai restaurant round the corner, it is a very white Anglo Saxon town - reminding me of how most of England used to be when I was a boy. The town centre is dominated by the magnificent spire of St James's Church - testament to the great wealth from wool that Louth enjoyed in the middle ages. I went inside to have a quick look round and bought Shirley a souvenir tea towel. Because I had another big walk on the wolds to do, I did not have time to scale the tower.
Below, a Ludensian (someone from Louth) checks out the offers in the window of "Louth Travel Centre". I wonder where he wants to go - perhaps to Red Deer in Alberta, Canada or maybe to Ludwigsburg in southwestern Germany. Who knows?
With my short and rather hurried tour of Louth finished, I set off west on the A157 road to the village of Burgh-on-Bain. There I parked Clint near the church and got ready for a twelve mile hike. What a diamond day it was! The meteorologists had got it perfectly right. I reached the small agricultural village of Gayton-le-Wold and entered St Peter's Church. A small and very simple building. There I spotted this broken pane of coloured glass above the altar:-
By the time I reached Doningtom-on-Bain, I was eager for some sustenance. The village pub was closed but there was a well-stocked village shop run by a lady called Jenny Ward who has run that establishment for fifty years and has recently written a book about being a village shopkeeper for half a century. I wonder what will happen when she finally hangs up her apron. Most probably there will be nobody to replace her. Tragically, so many village shops have already gone.
In Donington's quaint twelfth century parish church dedicated to St Andrew, I noticed this slit window with a remembrance cross made from ceramic poppies...
P.S. It seems that last night's post did not in fact publish when I pressed the button. Perhaps the wifi had gone down in "The Travellers" so better late than never - there's last night's post below. Two for the price of one.
The minister as he preached about fire and brimstone slammed his fist on the pulpit too hard and the vibration cracked the glass.
ReplyDeleteEven in cities the corner store is pretty well a thing of the past, replaced chains of mini marts and 711s.
How could she have been in business for 50 years when she only opened the shop in 1973? Then I realised how old I have become.
ReplyDeleteLouth looks like a pretty little unspoiled place.
I would like to read Jenny Ward's book, do you know if it is available everywhere?
ReplyDeleteWhat's not to love about your day! The weather, the walk, the villages and churches, the shop... So Jenny Ward wrote a book? I want to read that!
ReplyDeleteYour walks sound like a marathon - the weather looks perfect and ideal for such an undertaking. I'm surprised that everywhere looks so quiet - hardly a soul about.
ReplyDeleteThe last photo is particularly evocative.
"Jiggered" - there's a word. My dad used to say that. Much nicer than the modern equivalent which he never used. He also used to say "starved" meaning cold.
ReplyDeletewe are not to far from Louth its famous for its refusal to have a large supermarket and it fights it with a vengeance , it just means they have many excellent individual little shops , but its not a cheap place to live
ReplyDeleteIf I saw a building with the roofline like the Helal Tandoori over here, I would be scared to enter for fear of being caught in a collapse. But over there where buildings can be magnitudes of the age of our country older, I suppose it isn't all that unusual.
ReplyDeleteI don't think that is a cracked pane of glass. It is a depiction of God's Holy Spider.
ReplyDeleteI need a day or two out away from it all. Airline reservations for Saturday evening.
ReplyDeleteThey look great places to visit and they are great photos YP.
ReplyDeleteI am glad you had such perfect weather for your outing to Louth. Thanks for the nice tour, Neil!
ReplyDeleteThat's a whole lotta walking! And I'm saying that as a frequent walker myself. I love the picture of the cracked window. And I can't imagine using a travel agent. I'm surprised that place stays in business -- it seems much more likely to close than the village shop.
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