29 June 2023

Etna

That isn't Mount Etna in the top picture, it's just the site of a side eruption through a vent on the slopes of the great mountain. Most volcanoes are far more complicated than the infantile notion of a cone shaped hill with an opening at the top from which red hot molten lava occasionally flows.

Mount Etna in the north east of Sicily is the biggest active volcano in Europe. Steam  was issuing from the peak as we approached it from the south. The mountain's current altitude is 11.014 feet and its basal circumference is 87 miles. It covers an area of 459 square miles. It is certainly a big sucker.
Our hotel was sixty miles south of Etna. We boarded the tour coach at 8.15 in the morning, joining Italian and French tourists before bombing along the coastal motorway to the suburbs of the city of Catania. Then we climbed upwards along winding roads passing hundreds of humble blocks of flats where most of the ordinary citizens of Catania seem to live. Then we were passing through woodland and fertile farmland before reaching vast charcoal-coloured lava fields. By the way, our time-served tour guide was a fellow called Giovanni but more of him on another day.

At one point I spotted a small church that had been overwhelmed by a lava flow in the nineteen eighties and of course if we had been in a hire car we would have stopped to take photos of it but we were on a bus heading to the ski resort of Sapienza Refuge. There there are shops and restaurants and within easy walking distance are three or four impressive vents that we could plod around. The mannequin playing the flute was snapped at the door of one of the tourist shops.
Above you can see Crateri Silvestri which was created by the volcano in the 1890's I believe. Next to it is the Ristorante Crateri Silvestri where Shirley and I enjoyed  simple lunches of spaghetti with mixed salad, local red wine and sparkling water. Delightful. See below...
By a wall, using simple tools, I saw this young man making a carving from a chunk of the lava rock...
The image below shows the same vent pictured at the top but without any zoom on the camera. It was interesting to see how after a few years new vegetation begins to establish itself in the unpromising cooled lava and volcanic grit.
There was a lot more of Etna to see above Sapienza Refuge. In effect we were only half way up the mountain. There was a cable car to take you higher and 4x4 vehicles too but we only had three hours to spend there and we were quite satisfied with the experience. Back on the coach at two in the afternoon, it was time to head to Taormina. As clouds began to sheath the mountain in swirling mists, I realised we had enjoyed a clear window of opportunity. Many tourists  must get up there and suffer the disappointment of not being able to see anything.

16 comments:

  1. You were fortunate to have such a clear day for your visit, it seems. I would have felt slightly apprehensive being so close to such an active volcano. Visiting Vesuvius was bad enough and that has been dozing for quite some time.

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    1. Approaching the age of seventy, I'd be cool if it all ended in a volcanic eruption.

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  2. It would have been nice to see some swirling mists.
    I must say, I would feel a little apprehensive about being so close to an active volcano. There are so many 'what ifs'.

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    1. Yes - What if I couldn't finish my spaghetti? What if I never get to read "From The High Rise" again?

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  3. Although I have spent quite a bit of time in and around Catania, I have never been drawn to Mongibello (old native name for Mount Etna). A friend of mine lives in Acireale, and from her balcony, the glow is easily visible at night. I never felt all that safe at her house.
    Your meal looks very nice! Did you have pasta di mandorle with an espresso afterwards?

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    1. There was no time and I don't like espresso coffees anyway. Visiting Etna for just a few hours is no doubt quite different from living close to it - given its history.

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  4. I'd forgotten Etna was in Sicily. Your food looks delicious.

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    1. Forgotten it was in Sicily? You should pay more attention in class Miss River.

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    2. It comes up often in crossword puzzles, I SHOULD have remembered.

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  5. You had an interesting day.
    I have only seen Etna from a great distance - on the horizon from mainland Italy. Have been up closer to Vesuvius - an add-on to a day visiting Pompeii. For me just seeing a couple of volcanoes is enough in a lifetime - one in Italy and one on Lanzarote, and that's only if they remain dormant when I'm there!

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    1. It's surprising that they remained dormant while you were there Carol. I thought the Earth gods might have rebelled.

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  6. Seeing a volcano was on my bucket list, checked off in 2019, and I hope to see a few more.

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    1. A bucket was on my bucket list Mr Penguin!

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  7. Glad you got a good day to visit Etna. Those tours drive me crazy.
    "To your left is the Vatican. The pope lives there. And now, here is an interesting gift shop that my wife's cousin's uncle's father-in-law owns. We will spend an hour here."

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    1. After paying good money to our reputable holiday company I expected a much better guide than Giovanni.

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  8. Glad you got some clear views! It does look like a forbidding landscape. I'm surprised they've built structures on Etna, given that it's still active. I hope they have good insurance!

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