As expected, Monday morning was grey and wet but I didn't mind as I was driving home. I paid one last visit to Kirkcudbright where I bought Shirley some heather soap from the Scottish tourism shop and paid a visit to The Harbour Gallery to see the fine art exhibition - an eclectic collection of pictures of Galloway. It was certainly worth the detour.
Then I was back on the A75 heading east towards Gretna then south upon the M6 into England. To my surprise the weather was clearing. At Penrith, I stopped to look at my road atlas. It gave enough detail to guide me to "The Tan Hill Inn" which sits on the moors north of Swaledale close to the ancient border between Yorkshire and Westmorland (now Cumbria).
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| Entering Barras |
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| Above Barras looking west |
I left the A66 at Brough and very soon Clint took me along single track roads towards the moors. The last settlement I passed through was Barras - a strung out agricultural community. And then it was up onto the wild moorland. I had six miles to go to "The Tan Hill Inn", the highest pub on the island of Britain.
Two views of "The Tan Hill Inn"
It's wonderful that this remote pub soldiers on. It was built during the lead mining boom of the eighteenth century. The lad miners have been replaced by day visitors like me and passing hikers on The Pennine Way long distance footpath. It's somewhere I have wanted to visit for years.
Inside nearly all of the tables were occupied but there was a little copper table in the corner for Sad Sack. I had a cheese and tomato roll and a coffee and as I prised open the double glazed window for some fresh air I thought of Ted Moult and an old TV commercial for double glazing that was set in this pub - "Fit the best, fit Everest".
In Arkengarthdale
The drive down to Arkengarthdale and Swaledale was breathtaking. So many wonderful sights. I could have easily spent a week exploring the area but I was just passing through. In "The Tan Hill Inn" I had hatched a plan to visit The Weaver of Grass near Bellerby. Of course I didn't know if she would be in or not. I would simply chance it.
I went into the village stores in Reeth to purchase a tin of salmon. Some women like flowers or chocolates or perfume but I guessed that Pat would prefer salmon as she is addicted to it. I walked up the driveway to the back door where a message invited me to go inside to the inner door but unfortunately the back door was locked and I couldn't see her new car in the now deserted farmyard.
Peering in through the side windows, I could see several sealed cardboard boxes. She has often referred to them in her blog as she prepares to move down the road into the little market town of Leyburn. However, it was a surprise to see so many posters of Jim Reeves and Val Doonican plastered on the walls. I guess The Weaver is a big fan.
Then I commanded Clint to whisk me back to Sheffield. It had been a super weekend. A lovely adventure. So many glorious sights and well worth waiting for that good weather slot. Finally, here's a bull with two girlfriends seen above Ross Bay on the coast of Galloway:-
You are joking about those posters, aren't you?
ReplyDeletePossibly...
DeleteI hope she isn't joking about those posters. Just wonderful photos. During my last UK visit, I wondered how these marvellous English country pubs that serve up great meals are financially sustainable. While less than £20 is about $30 in our money, it is not a lot to pay for a good hearty meal.
ReplyDeleteTwenty quid! Christ! I would expect a banquet and dancing girls for that!
DeleteSo you were high for lunch, eh? haha
ReplyDeleteThat is really beautiful countryside. What a lovely drive it must have been.
It is a well-known fact that jokesters project their own thoughts into the teasing tales they create; ergo now we know who your singing crushes are. Yep.
Oh heavens, you have found me out Jenny! When I said I liked Bob Dylan and Leonard Cohen, I was only pretending. It was Donny and David all along... AAAAAAAAAAH! (sound of teenage fan screaming).
DeleteDo you mind. Never even heard of the two you mention.
ReplyDeleteSue - Definitely. I have twoo many original paintings from my first husband to contemplate putting anything else on my walls.
ReplyDeleteI am not, and never have been. a pop music fan.
I respect your right to self defence.
DeleteGood for you for finding out of the way interesting places to visit.
ReplyDeleteIt's nice to do that.
DeleteToo bad you didn't get to meet Weaver! I'll bet she liked the salmon, though. I wonder what you'd leave if you could casually swing by my house...? :)
ReplyDeleteI would leave a book by a well-known author - written with sensitivity and a deep understanding of the human condition: "Think Big and Kick Ass" by Donald J. Trump (2007)
DeleteYou wonder how an isolated pub like that is still bringing in enough money to support its operators.
ReplyDeleteAn enjoyable weekend was had by us all. Have a good week, Yorkie. :)
Sorry I haven't been over to the legendary Kitchen Connection recently Lee. I'll be there soon.
DeleteWas it nice to get back home? It sounds like you had a good time. while you were there? You must have missed Coronation Street while you were away.
ReplyDeleteI don't live on Coronation Street Terry. I live on Easy Street.
DeleteYour calming photos were a pleasant intrusion into my somewhat stressful world at the moment. The cheese and tomato roll in the pub sounds heavenly right now.
ReplyDeleteIt would have been nice if you could have joined me for an hour even though I guess you have got one of those cockney accents! You would have looked out across the wild moors along the Pennine Way as a walker approached with two golden dogs.
DeleteOddly enough there was a programme about the Tan Hill Pub recently. It was/is on the market I believe. There are new people managing it now. It's not an easy place to survive in through the winter with no mains electricity nor any other services I should think. It has it's own snowplough though!
ReplyDeleteI saw the snow plough and also a snow cat - like those they use in Antarctica. It wouldn't suit me living up there but it was a great place to visit. So wild.
DeleteIt is up for sale again I believe.
ReplyDeleteNeil. I am so glad you called and so sorry I was out but I do
wish you hadn't posted the photograph of my house and also of our farm yard. Could you please remove them for me?
Sorry Pat. I will remove them right away.
DeleteThanks YP - much appreciated.
ReplyDeleteIt may sound boring, but I can not help repeating myself with this comment: Great pictures, as always, and thank you for taking us along!
ReplyDeleteThe "Tan Hill Inn" also features in one or two novels. I have often spotted them in places such as "The Little Ripon Bookshop" but never bought them, as I have yet to visit the pub. It has been on my bucket list for years but I don't think I'll ever get there unless one of my relatives takes me there by car.
Have you or your sister got driving licences? You could hire a car for two or three days.
DeleteI never took a driving test. My sister has a car and drives regularly in Germany, but she does not dare to give it a try on the "wrong" side. She is a nervous driver at the best times, and I would not want to be in the car with her if she was challenged by everything being different from what she is used to!
DeleteOh. That's a shame. If your sister was a more confident driver you could get to travel further afield and see more.
DeleteStunning pictures!
ReplyDeleteThanks Sol. Are you Sol Campbell - the ex-England and Arsenal footballer?
DeleteNo, sorry I am the wrong sex! ha ha I wish I could run like that though.
DeleteWrong sex? Sounds like fun.
Delete